Crafty sew and sew in Dorset

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Pattern Review: Kalle shirt from Closet Case Patterns

This is the third item in the 2018 #sewmystyle line up; the kalle shirt dress from Closet case files.

I’ve had my eye on this pattern for a while now so was excited to see it added to the sewing list and knowing I would get some discount on the pattern.

I made two versions of this shirt. One for me and one for my mum for Mother’s Day.

The fabric is a lovely and soft cotton lawn from fabricland- although it creases terribly after a wash and always needs a good iron.

The first version was cut in a size 14 in the popover design. The button placket was a first for me but the instructions were so clear I managed it with ease. I used some pale pink buttons also from fabricland.

I chose the band collar as I know my mum does not like fussy or low cut necklines and felt this would be comfortable with just the top button undone.

For the back I chose to do the inverted pleat and tunic length shirt.

For my version I stuck with the band collar after seeing Lauren Guthrie’s version on YouTube.

I opted for the cropped length, adding 5cm again as suggested by Lauren on her YouTube video. This is the perfect length for me and without it would definitely be too short!

The high low hem works well and I tried out the box pleat on my one, which I think I prefer.

I used the hidden button placket on my version which was another first. I got really confused with this the first time round…..

….my husband came in from walking the dogs to find me looking very annoyed at the ironing board and asked if he had done something wrong 😂 Basically I ironed the concertina folds the wrong way round so then it didn’t fold together. I ironed flat and started again and worked it out!

The pdf pattern was huge!! I laid it all out and cut and stuck a Piece at a time. I don’t generally mind that part of the process but worth bearing in mind if you are one of those who hate cutting and glueing….one for the print shop maybe!

The instructions were really clear throughout, especially for the burrito roll technique. I took photos to show the process in case anyway was stuck:

After sewing the two shoulder sections to the main body like a sandwich and then layout as above on a flat surface.

Roll the two body sections together towards the shoulder sections until you can see the shoulder section on the bottom.

Pin the two shoulder seams together and you’re done! I tend to add a couple of pins further down as well to ensure I don’t catch the shirt when I sew the shoulder seams.

This is my finished Kalle shirt with my newly finished Morgan jeans (blog post coming soon!)

I hope you are all enjoying seeing everyone’s versions of this shirt over on instagram- look out for me on there under the same name @craftysewandsewindorset

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Pattern review: In the Folds Slouchy cardigan

ANOTHER FREE PATTERN!!!! Download here from Peppermint Magazine.

This pattern replaced the 3 hour slouchy cardigan from the GBSB book in my make nine line up due to buying VERY expensive fabric and the original pattern not having great reviews on how it was drafted.

I bought this mohair/wool/ polyester mix fabric from Hanson’s last month during the Dorset meet up. It was £22 a metre, which is a lot compared to my normal fabricland prices but was too beautiful not to buy and it was 20% off!

My first challenge was whether or not I could wash my fabric without it shrinking as I wanted a daily cardigan and not a dry clean only coat.

Luckily with wool washing liquid and a wool cycle my test samples came out the same size (thanks to Instagram buddies for their advice 😊).

I cut out all my pieces and sewed the body and sleeves together. This was a super easy make, all completed on my overlocker and no fitting issues as it’s designed to be oversized and slouchy.

I tried it on at this stage and decided it would be too itchy without a lining so popped down to my local fabricland for some cotton fabric.

I only bought a metre of this fabric which only covered the body so had to raid my stash for some poly lining fabric in cream for the sleeves.

I made up a second version of the cardigan from the two fabrics, again with my overlocker, and then machine tacked it to the outer shell.

I made a small pleat in the lining at the back and then overlocked the two layers together onto the neckband and cuffs.

To neaten the inside I then topstitched the neckband joining the overlocked hem to the lining.

The two layers makes this cardigan so warm and cosy to wear.

I would definitely recommend this pattern and I get lots of compliments on my finished cardigan. It’s a simple make for a beginner and it’s free…..and it has pockets!!

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Pattern review: Sew Over It Clara blouse

First things first……I love my new blouse!!

This is the latest release from Sew over it which I bought last week as I’m a member of their pdf club (10% off pdf pattern releases and access to patterns before they are released, all for £5 a year plus a free pattern of your choice!)

This fabric was from my stash, it’s a liberty print of umbrellas bought at Livingstone textiles in Yeovil last summer for my birthday. I had plans to make a soi 1940’s tea dress but my husband asked me about the era of this print and prompted me to find a 1940’s print instead of this 1920’s design!!

I did a quick piece of research on this print and discovered it was designed by Winifred Mold in 1919, you can read more about it here.

This was a relatively straight forward make but with lots of stages so a slow Sew for me compared to my normal jersey makes. It took me about 6-7 hours in total over a few evenings to complete.

I constructed the pleats, neckline and side seams in one sitting.

I hemmed it and added sleeves on another evening and then finished the cuffs on a third evening.

The cuffs are what convinced me to buy this pattern. I love the finer details on patterns you buy from independent pattern designers rather than the big four.

I used star buttons from my pot of buttons from the makery.

The instructions were very long and detailed for this pattern..over 50 steps!! In my opinion they were so detailed it became more confusing! I kept re-reading sections not understanding and then would skip a couple of sections in the photos and realise they were just asking me to bias bind the cuff opening or sew the interfacing on. Things I didn’t need step by step guidance on. It would be interesting to know how a beginner would report on the instructions, maybe I just don’t read them properly any more and this level of instruction caused me confusion.

I would say this pattern was for an advanced beginner/ intermediate dressmaker due to the fiddly technique on the cuffs and facing.

I cut a straight size 10 based on my bust size and needed no alterations 😊

This is a great pattern with lovely details and will definitely be replicated in other prints in my wardrobe this year.

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Pattern Review: Copen dress by Made To Sew

FREE PATTERN ALERT

I came across the Copen dress on the foldline website searching for a simple shift dress. I’ve been considering the sew over it ultimate shift dress for a while but it seemed quite an expensive pattern for something so simple.

The reviews on the Copen dress were great and as a free pattern I couldn’t go far wrong.

I bought the fabric a couple of years ago with plans to make a Designer stitch Jenny dress but decided it was too thick for the wrap at the front.

I had a conference at work that I needed to present at so really wanted a smart dress that would be comfortable to wear all day. This was a super quick make that has you finishing all the edges before sewing together so you can press seams open.

I used my overlocker for finishing the edges and a straight stitch on my machine for sewing together.

The trickiest part for this pattern are the darts: 2 busy darts and then front and back ones which can be a little challenging to a beginner.

The instructions were great and contain tutorials at the back for each stage for inserting darts and zips etc.

I lost a couple of days sewing from burning my hand cooking 🤦🏼‍♀️ so ended up rushing the finish the night before the conference.

This meant my zip insertion suffered and didn’t lay flat. I wore it as it was on Friday but have redeemed myself by unpicking and re-sewing this weekend.

I blended two sizes from bust to waist/hip which made for a perfect fit first time (lucky with my time constraint) and used the dart markings between the two sizes and these sat just in the right place.

I didn’t manage to get any photos of me wearing it before I left in the morning and too tired when I got home.

Someone took this photo of me wearing it at the conference though.

And a photo of our beautiful location had to be thrown in.

I would seriously recommend this pattern and there is a Facebook page – search for Copen dress- to see other finished versions.

Thanks Made to Sew for a great pattern 😍

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